Growing up in Porthcawl, Wales, the author developed a deep affinity for the ocean and surfing from a very young age. However, this lifelong passion was interrupted when chronic health issues began to emerge during her teenage years. Conditions such as endometriosis and a connective tissue disorder progressively impacted her physical mobility and muscle strength. By the age of 23, a severe infection resulted in the loss of the use of her legs, leaving her unable to access the water she loved. Feeling disconnected from her identity, she eventually found a way to return to the sea thanks to an unexpected initiative taken by her brother. This intervention provided her with a renewed sense of purpose and allowed her to reclaim her relationship with the waves despite her significant physical limitations.
Source : The Guardian
Photo : The Guardian
